HX's amazing Antarctic Expedition Cruise

Antarctica is like nowhere else on earth – for me it was an other-worldly experience which is quite difficult to put into words. Offering breathtaking scenery and incredible wildlife encounters, it was the absolute trip of a lifetime! Less than 0.01% of the world’s population have ever travelled to Antarctica, and it truly is a unique destination. As our planet’s southernmost and least populated continent, its 40% bigger than Europe, with most of its’ area covered by the Antarctic icesheet, at an average thickness of 1.2 miles. Strict rules are in force to ensure this least-visited continent is protected, and so to travel here it’s important to put yourself in the hands of experts. HX (Hurtigruten Expeditions) are market leaders in Expedition Cruising, and they have been taking curious travellers on awe-inspiring journeys since 1896. As a company they have a strong focus on sustainability and preservation of the environments visited, so I knew my trip would be as conscientious as it was immersive.

We flew to from London to Buenos Aires, with a touchdown in Rio. We were met at the airport by a HX representative, who transferred us to our hotel and gave us instructions for our afternoon tour of the city, and details of our onward flight to Ushuaia the next day. On arrival in Ushuaia, we visited the Tierra Del Fuego National Park before heading to the port in the afternoon to join our ship. Our luggage was taken from us at Ushuaia airport and was transferred directly to our cabins on the ship, and the whole process was very smooth.

The first thing you see when you step onboard MS Roald Amundsen is a 17.5 metre LED screen which spans 7 decks (the largest LED screen at sea!) which was a unique and eye-catching welcome, featuring incredible images of wildlife, scenery and other content. It really set the tone for the cruise and the incredible adventure we were about to embark on!

One of the highlights onboard for me was the Science & Education Centre. Here you could enjoy a variety of activities and numerous daily lectures covering a whole host of topics from native wildlife and geology to the history and geography of the area. I knew there was an Expedition Team onboard, but I hadn’t anticipated how much they would enhance the overall cruise experience, and how much they engage with guests in all the activities. They are key to the whole operation, each with their own specialist subject and area of expertise - Photographer, Scientist, Biologist, Explorer, Marine Biologist, Ornithologist or Naturalist - they all brought something different and interesting to the whole experience. I enjoyed a host of activities onboard, all of which were included. The state-of-the-art facilities hosted many different activities, lectures and workshops and I attended almost all of them! Lectures on penguins, seals, whales, the history of Antarctica and Shackleton’s Expedition, to name but a few, as well as workshops including photography, biology and arts & crafts.

Being in Antarctica we didn't dock in any 'ports' as such. Sailing from Ushuaia our Highlights of Antarctica cruise saw us cross the Drakes Passage, I will never forget seeing our first sightings of Antarctica. The icy landscape and the icebergs glittering like diamonds - it actually took my breath away! We made a variety of stops, including Pleneau Island where we visited a Penguin Colony. We enjoyed Scenic Cruising through the Lamaire Channel, before heading to Damoy Point in Dorian Bay for our first landing, . Here we visited another Penguin Colony and I tried 'snowshoeing' for the first time. Our next stop was Orne Harbour, here we encountered a number of Humpback Whales who put on a great show for us. Neko Harbour was our next landing, where we trekked up the mountain for amazing views of the Glacier and Paradise Bay, where the penguins again kept us entertained. Our final stop was Fournier Bay with more whale spotting and a number of seal encounters.

In order to preserve this unique region, there are strict guidelines that HX follow. Only a certain number of passengers are permitted to be on land or in zodiacs at any one time. Special boots are given to you for the duration of the cruise, and these were cleaned after every landing to avoid any cross contamination. There were also strict guidelines for the safety of both the guests and the protection of the wildlife in terms of the distance you had to allow between you – although I should point out that the penguins didn’t always follow the rules!

The scenery is utterly breathtaking, and the wildlife encounters were incredible - being so close to them in their natural habitat. We were very lucky to see the humpback whales in such numbers and so close - they are huge! The penguins are adorable and such entertaining little characters. We saw chinstrap and gentoo penguins, and after attending the lecture I knew the difference! We also saw leopard seals and fur seals, as well as several species of birds. Kayaking was an experience I will never forget – trying to dodge the ‘bergy bits’ (little pieces of iceberg) and I even did the Polar Plunge! The sea temperature was 1 degree! Absolutely freezing but exhilarating, and one to tick off the bucket list!

Being an Expedition cruise the key focus for me had been on the destination and I hadn’t really considered the ship itself. I expected it to be just a base to facilitate our adventure, but MS Roald Amundsen was modern, comfortable and spacious, with beautiful Scandinavian inspired décor throughout and a warm, welcoming feel-good atmosphere.  

The Explorer lounge was a favourite place to get together and have a drink, relax and take in the stunning outside views. This is a huge space where you can choose to be sociable and enjoy a drink at the bar or relax in one of the many ‘snug’ areas. I particularly liked the day beds right at the front, with floor to ceiling windows where you could sit to read a book or simply take in the views. Evenings were spent here, where we usually met for pre-dinner drinks and after dinner there was usually some form of entertainment such as live music, a pianist or a quiz. One highlight for me was when various members of the crew formed a band and entertained all the guests with a live music show. This was a great touch and something I have never seen before on the many cruises I have been fortunate to go on. The guests absolutely loved it!

The deck area has a heated pool and two oversized hot tubs where it was great to relax and take in your incredible surroundings. The ship also has a fully equipped indoor gym, a beautiful spa offering a variety of treatments and a huge sauna with floor to ceiling windows. On the top deck you can find a running/walking track and an outdoor gym.

I stayed in an Arctic Superior Balcony Stateroom, which was comfortable and spacious with an ample bathroom, plenty of storage, a lounge/sitting area, huge TV and a vanity area. The room had tea/coffee making facilities, bathrobes and a minibar, which was at an additional charge. I had the opportunity to look at the Suites, and they are beautiful, offering guests a host of additional benefits such as laundry service, espresso coffee maker, included mini-bar, dedicated restaurant and enhanced all-inclusive drinks and cocktails whilst onboard.

There are three restaurants onboard MS Roald Amundsen:

Aune offers buffet-style breakfast and lunch and a la carte for dinner, with a different theme and menu each evening.

Fredheim is part diner, part café, available for lunch and dinner or a quick snack. Decorated with colourful rugs, wooden furniture and soft chairs, it has a relaxed atmosphere.

Lindstrøm is available to suite guests at no extra cost for all meals, and available to other guests for dinner for an additional fee. This was my favourite - a fine-dining speciality restaurant with a lovely intimate feel. The food was incredible and reflective of the destinations we visited, all with perfectly paired wine.

The waiters in the restaurants, our cabin stewards, the expedition team - all the crew were incredible and extremely friendly – nothing was too much trouble. One of the surprises for me was the diverse mixture of guests onboard - all ages, with both younger and older couples, groups of friends and also families, as well as a number of solo travellers. Whatever age you are, if you are active with a keen interest in exploring and learning more about the destinations you are visiting then HX-Expeditions is for you. Their focus on sustainability and protecting the environment was an important factor for me, and there was so much to do and see onboard. Attending the lectures and learning more about Antarctica and the native wildlife meant we could really appreciate and understand this unique destination.

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Top Tips for this trip:

• A full packing guide/list is provided before you travel.

• Dress code is casual at all times, including dinner.

• Have a small backpack with any overnight essentials you may need for your stay in Buenos Aires.

• HX-Expeditions will give you a waterproof and windproof jacket onboard (which is yours to keep!) I would also recommend taking a warm down jacket, although this is not essential.

• Take warm thermals, a woolly hat, snood, thermal gloves and waterproof trousers are a must.

• You don’t need any special footwear, just something you will be comfortable wearing onboard. Special waterproof boots are provided for the duration of the cruise for excursions and landings.

• I took some binoculars, but these are also available to rent onboard.

• Don’t forget your camera! A good phone or camera is essential to capture all your incredible moments!

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If you have been inspired to plan an expedition cruise, contact your local branch

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